3.9.15

Stalking





I lay flat and crawled slowly forward, my head inches away from the soles of the head keeper's boots.  We stopped.  We waited. 

The problem was that the stags we were stalking were too close - just over the ridge in front of us.  If we crawled onto the ridge, they would see us outlined against the horizon and disappear.  Ab suggested that we wait for them to graze to the right, where we would have a good shot at them without having to expose ourselves.

We waited.  I fell asleep.  It started to rain.  I woke up.  I was primarily concerned with the fact that I was absolutely bursting for a pee, and could we please either shoot this damn stag or have them all run away, so I can stand up and relieve myself.

Ab very slowly lifted his head up, and froze for a long time.  When he slowly lowered it, he said to me 'that was a close one!'.  Turns out that after popping his head up, and seeing a group of 15 or so stags just 80 yards away, one of them had stared right at him.  He froze stock still, and after a couple of minutes of staring contest, the stag decided that he was no threat, and went back to his grazing.

We slowly crawled a bit closer, our bellies touching the ground, and Ab very quietly unzipped the gun from its case.  We waited.  And waited.  I tried to sleep a bit more but could only think about the pressure in my bladder. 

Presently Ab whispered urgently to me - "they've smelt something".  They were apparently (I had still not seen them at this point)  lifting their heads and sniffing the air upwind.  Then suddenly there was a thundering of hooves and we looked up to see a large stag bearing down on us.  He froze when he saw us, perhaps 5 metres away.  We had been caught completely by surprise and had no time to pick up the rifle and aim for a point blank shot.  Besides, I wasn't allowed to shoot just any old stag.  We had to sit and look at them, and Ab would pick one for me that was not too good and not too young.

More stags appeared at speed over the ridge, and we found ourselves looking up at 4 or 5 magnificent beasts who were about to run us over at speed.  They  screeched to a halt when they reached their friend and all turned left, in full flight away from our position.  I frantically got behind the scope of the gun and tried to find them.  Not that easy when they were still only 50m away. They paused about 100 yards away, and Ab quickly selected a beast, which had its tail to us. As he turned to the right and exposed his side, Ab gave me the word to fire.  I gently squeezed the trigger.  Nothing.  I squeezed harder.  The fucking safety was on.  I took the safety off .... but it was too late.  They were all on the move again at speed, towards the ridge on the horizon. 

That was it.  After hours of crawling and waiting, our quarry had escaped from under our noses, and nearly mown us down in the process.


We stood up slightly dazed, struggling to believe what just happened.  We soon found that there was no round in the chamber either, so even if the safety had been off, I probably still wouldn't have had time to take a shot.

We returned to Aurora and John the ghillie, who were thoroughly fed up and cold after waiting for us for two hours.  At least they hadn't eaten our lunch.

Aurora decided she needed to get back to the house ASAP before her fingers fell off, so she headed off with Rob to the landrover.  I went with Ab to see if we could find some more stags.  After another hour or so, having resigned myself to writing off the day completely, Ab announced that there were some stags over the next ridge. 

We sat and waited out a passing shower.  Luckily I had enough decent gear on to keep warm.

Ab stuck his stick in the ground and tied the dogs up.  Once more we got down and started crawling.  Not like a baby crawls, but more like Felix crawled before he learned to use his legs.   Just dragging himself along with his arms. 

As I hauled myself over a low rise, I finally caught sight of the group - perhaps 30 individuals, only about 180 yards away.  We got closer.  Ab indicated for me to lie alongside him, and got the gun ready.  "Keep your finger off the trigger".  He selected a stag with the binos while I looked through the scope.   "Don't shoot until I give the word."





The stag was standing near another one nearby.  As the other stag moved off, Ab told me to shoot when ready.  A gentle squeeze of the trigger, a whopping bang, and the group were all galloping away.  Except for my one, who was lagging somewhat.  He slowed to a walk, flicking his tail.  Then he stood still.  He looked like someone standing in the kitchen trying to remember why they came in there in the first place.  I reloaded the rifle in case he wasn't going to go down.

Then he sank to his knees.  Ab had us wait for a little longer in case he got back up.  We stood up and I thanked Ab.  He got on the radio to John with the Argocat.  The rest of the group of stags, who were watching us at a safe distance, spotted us and fled across the mountainside.

I put my hand in my pocket to discover a gooey mess - the banana and smarties I had stuffed into my pocket earlier had not taken too kindly to being soaked in the rain and then crushed into the heather.

I returned to the lodge flush with success, my face stained with blood for my first stag, my only regret being the lack of camera to capture the moment. 

It did seem rather surreal the next morning when I picked up the head of my stag and tried to fit it in the boot of the hire car in order to drive it down the road to a chap in Braemar who would stuff it and mount it for me.





How is it ok to shoot a stag?


I did wonder myself.  The red deer is native to Scotland, but since the wolf was made extinct some 200 years ago, it has had no natural predators.  So in the absence of any management, the population would increase exponentially until they ran out of food. 

I learnt from Ab that landowners in Scotland have a legal obligation to manage their deer populations.  Once a year the entire deer population in the whole area is counted, and every 4 years they use a helicopter to get a more accurate count.  If Scottish Natural Heritage judge that you've not culled enough deer, they will send a hunter round to shoot some, and send you the bill.

So the landowners do need to regularly shoot deer, to protect the heather from damage due to overgrazing and trampling (which would in turn affect other species like mountain hare and grouse).








Ab, head keeper at Glenmuick



30.4.15

Namibia


Namibia


Looking out of the window when on final approach to the main airport of a European capital city, what would you expect to see?  Houses, roads, warehouses, an airport hotel perhaps, lots of car parks, then finally a perimeter road.  Not so at Windhoek airport.  Instead, it's just bush - classic African savanna, right until the perimeter fence when there's even more bush, and finally a runway.  And this despite Windhoek being the capital city of a country larger (in area) than France and Germany combined.

But don't think that Namibia is an impoverished African backwater.  Well at any rate, it's not impoverished.  This is European Africa.  No townships to be seen on the way from the airport to the town - it certainly gives the impression of being a place with far less inequality than its neighbour to the south.

Windhoek airport


I'm here for a bike ride across the desert, an endeavour which I (perhaps foolishly) volunteered myself for back in January of this year.


Day -3  Johannesburg

A long flight from London in Premium Economy - managed to sleep thanks to some Valium.  Hand baggage included the drone, in its large travel case.  Looking out of the window on approach, it did bring out my soft spot for Joburg - it was after all my home for 3 years.  Got to Hilton (via Gautrain - very smooth and comfortable) in time for a nice breakfast in the sunshine and a dip in the pool.  A quick drone flight, and then up to the room to do a full day's work ( it's all about the billable days).  

Sandton Hilton, from the air


I had tried to arrange to meet all my Joburg friends for dinner, but it turned out to be a damp squib.  Charlene was sent to Kimberley for work at the last minute, Marisca didn't want to come, etc.  In the end it was Amy, Chris du Plessis, Jo and Tijl (plus Sam), and Rajesh (who kindly paid for dinner).

Day -2  Windhoek


Pack and repack, atttempting to get travel pillow and yoga mat in bag before conceding defeat and strapping helmet to the outside of my day pack.  Nice BA lounge followed by 1200 flight to Windhoek.  Airport in the middle of the bush!  Taxi to Maison Ambre - a small comfortable place run by Beate - very nice and very German!  Bruno arrives shortly after me.  We walk to the bike shop (no footpath - classic Africa) for a briefing with the rest of the team, followed by a big steak at Sardinia restaurant.

Day -1  To the desert

Lunch stop at Uis - the last sign of civilization for about a week
An early start and pickup in big minibus for a long drive.  Stop at Uis for lunch - a very quiet 'town' with a petrol station, restaurant, and not much else.  In the car, our guide Joe and John the Botanist describe a plant which we saw examples of by the side of the road.  It looked very much like a dead cactus, but was in fact a plant with only 2 leaves, each measuring up to 2 x 5 m, but which get shredded by grazing animals.  A beetle fertilizes the plants, which can live for up to 2500 years!

Kalahari Ferrari, Uis


We change vehicles to 2 huge land cruiser conversions.  We were now travelling in 3 vehicles and 2 trailers, and we headed off across the desert.  After a brief stop to buy rocks (yes quite) at a barren, windswept, isolated place with lots of people selling rocks, the road gradually got more and more rocky, and slower, as we descended into a gorge filled with large shale rocks.  It looks like the surface of Mars.  Upon arrival our tents has been set up by another team of people who later prepared a delicious supper.  

Slight technical problem - Rich can fix it

Day 0  First day on a bike!

A relatively late start (6:30am), and a relaxing breakfast.  It was very cold, and with 100% cloud cover.  After a tremendous faff getting the bikes ready, we finally headed off as the sun began to warm us.  A technical but gradual climb through a rocky gorge, with occasional wider stretches.  After lots of water and a couple of stops we reached a pass with an amazing view of the plateau ahead.  We then climbed on foot a small hill which gave an amazing panorama.  The landscape was furrowed and striped on a grand scale.  Millions of years of sedimentary rok deposit had turned on its side producing the most extraordinary scenery.  

A subset of the group then descended back to the camp by bike, while the others hid their bikes and drove back in the vehicles.

After a bucket shower (with ingenious heating system), lots of lunch and a nap, a few of us headed out in a vehicle to find a lake in a disused mine which we had heard about.  No-one really knew where it was but at the bottom of a huge hole we finally found a green and quite salty but warm pool where we had a nice swim and took some photos.

Open cast swimming pool


Day 1  First proper day on a bike



Day 2  I hate soft sand!